The seventies of the last century brought to the fore, thanks to Luigi Veronelli, the wines of Candia.Il regret “Gino” wrote that the Vermentino white wine offered with constant straw yellow with amber highlights with delicate perfume. He wrote also differentiated according to the types of wine: dry, or caressing with every bite or downright lovable.
A Vermentino that over two thousand years finds little correspondence with those cultured descriptions; Vermentino a media that has had an explosion, rather than actually qualitative, in the sense of a general leveling of the expressions of pleasantness without immerse themselves in the nuances of territoriality that should (or could) elevate him to the attention that they deserve its potential.
The strip of land in Candia is very impressive, a real steep slope, really hard to cultivate, where fatigue is felt and at the end of the day fatigue is grim.
Honour then to Candia dei Colli Apuani and its Vermentino White, not to mention the rare and succosissimo Vermentino Nero and marinareggianti Massaretta, Buonamico and Barsaglina.The Vermentino is a white grape that smell like the foam of the waves crashing on the rocks or sea salt breeze. We could call it a vine Tyrrhenian, given the prevalence in Sardinia, Corsica, Midi, Liguria, Tuscany and Provence.I wonder if Giovanni Pascoli was not inspired by the Vermentino when he wrote “m’affaccio the window and I see the sea: / are the stars, the flickering waves. / I see stars go, so go. “The pulpit of the Vermentino are the provinces of Massa and Carrara, the narrow terraces and the white marble Apuan looming as an angel of light.Have tasted seven wines, chosen randomly (to use a term innovative) and sent to us by the delegate seat dell’Apuana Lorenzo Chiappini.
Vermentino Pearls Clouds, Candia dei Colli Apuani, 2011, Terre Apuane, 13% vol.
Shimmering color with the olfactory profile of high typicality: herbs, white almond, golden apple. With a decidedly fresh look like it was drier than expected, thin structure, the final anchored in a little almond husk ‘unbalancing. Risotto with cuttlefish ink.